Fish, as is well known, can be a great food for those into dining for health and weight management. But these days, fresh fish is beset with so many problems: possible contamination with mercury and other pollutants; over-fishing of wild stocks; fish-farming methods that damage the environment; and often astronomical prices at market. So what's a a health-conscious fish-fan to do?
Eat tilapia, that's what.
Tilapia can be farmed sustainably and with minimal impact on the environment--they are omnivores but thrive on an all-vegetarian environment, and are traditionally farmed in enclosed tanks (as opposed to the environment-damaging open tanks used to farm Atlantic salmon). They are by no means endangered--in fact, in some areas where they've been introduced to the wild, they've become an invasive nuisance species, another reason why the preferred farming method is all-enclosed tanks. They're a low-fat low-on-the-food-chain species--so, alas, not much omega-3 fatty acid benefit, but on the other hand that means they don't accumulate fat-soluble pollutants the way salmon and other fatty fish do. Their mild white flesh makes them a great culinary canvas for all sorts of seasoning and cooking techniques. And best of all, they're a real bargain price-wise.
Here is a Chinese-style whole steamed fish with black bean sauce with which I've had great success. One big tilapia, cooked this way, makes a great meal for two. I like to leave head and tail intact as the Chinese do--but if you can't bear looking at the fish head on your plate, by all means have the fishmonger remove it.
Ingredients:
- One whole fresh tilapia, about 1-1/2 to 2 pounds--scales, gills, innards, and fins removed, head and tail intact
- Ginger root, about the equivalent of a 1-inch cube
- Scallions, one or two
- Chinese fermented black beans (not to be confused with Latin American black turtle beans!), about 2 tsp. or to taste
- Chinese dark soy sauce, 1 tblsp.
- Shaohsing wine (or other rice wine, or dry sherry), 1 tblsp.
- Dark sesame oil, 1 tsp.
- Sugar, 1/2 tsp. (don't freak! it's only 1/2 tsp., and it really does help balance the sauce)
- Salt, about 1 tsp.
Special equipment:
- A large wok or pot with a tight-fitting lid to use as your steamer--I use a deep wok-like pan with a glass lid, which is really handy for keeping an eye on the fish without removing the lid and letting all the steam escape.
- A heat-proof rimmed dish which will just hold the fish without letting any of its delicious juices drip away, and which will fit comfortably inside your steaming utensil with the lid in place--I use a big pie plate.
- A rack to hold the plate on which you will lay your fish--I use one of those folding steamer baskets with the central post removed.
Method:
- Mise en place: roughly chop the black beans. Peel the ginger and cut into fine julliene. Trim the scallions and julliene them too.
- Set up your steaming equipment: put just enough water in the bottom of your pot or wok so that it stays below the surface of your steaming rack. Put the rack in, put the lid on top, and put the whole rig over moderate heat so that it'll have a good head of steam rolling by the time you're ready to place the fish inside.
- Prepare your fish: rinse it all over, removing any remaining bits of gore from its abdominal cavity, and pat dry inside and out with paper toweling. Cut deep crosswise slits in both sides of the fish, about an inch apart and just about down to bone without going through. Rub inside and out with the salt, working it into the slits as well. Place the fish in your rimmed plate.
- Combine the black beans, soy sauce, wine, oil, and sugar, and stir well. Pour the black bean mixture evenly over the entire fish, then scatter the ginger and scallions evenly over the fish as well.
- Slip your dish full of fish into your steamer equipment, getting the lid back on as quickly as possible to avoid letting too much steam and heat escape. Let the fish steam about 15 to 20 minutes uninterrupted (this is where that glass lid comes in really handy!).
- After about 15 minutes or so, you can start checking for doneness by slipping the lid off and looking inside one of the slits you cut in the fish. If all the flesh down in that slit has just barely lost that translucent still-raw look, your fish is basically done. Do not over-cook!
- Bring the fish to the table on the plate in which it was steamed, and serve with rice to sop up all the pan juices. For more adventurous eaters, the meat and gelatinous stuff in the fish head is great eating--the Chinese consider the fish head a delicacy, to be reserved for the dinner guest of honor.
Variations: You can of course do this recipe with just about any fish of about the same size and mildness of flavor. With a little adjustment in timing and such, you could do it with steaks or fillets too (in that case, I'd recommend using some non-stick cooking spray on the dish that will hold the fish). For those who like their food spicy, you can add crushed dried chilies or chili bean paste (toban jian) to the black bean mixture.
Oh yeah--I am told that there is an old superstition among the Chinese (and other sea-faring peoples too) that if you turn a fish over at the dinner table, somewhere out at sea a fishing vessel will capsize! I'm not superstitious but I do like honoring cultural traditions, so once I've served all the meat off one side of a whole fish I pry up its spine and remove it to get at the remaining meat, rather than attempting to flip the fish (this also keeps the delicate fish from breaking into bits, so it's practical as well).
More about tilapia:
Oceans Alive on eco-safety of tilapia
Tilapia: the fish of the future?
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